Exhaust system...

The oblong exhaust system is impossible to find. I found an early exhaust with two 30mm outlets. I made the exhaust with 1" conduits. 

Starting by fitting the pipe and finding out the right angle.

The bending tool is more expensive than the materials.

For future reference:

The first angle center is at 25.5 cm with an angle of 4 degrees.

The second angle center is at 60 cm with an angle of 3 degrees.

Cut pipe from the end at 56cm (Starting with a 10' pipe)

Fitting pretty good.

The rear section has only one bent.

For future reference:

Cut a 10' pipe in half

The angle center is at 67cm from the front with an angle of 4 degrees.

The fishtail is also impossible to find; I hope to find a Robri but in the mean time I will use this one...

Due to the fish tail, I cannot use the original bracket since the pipe are touching each other. I've just welded a bracket which also will keep the pipes from twisting.

These are original brackets (For this muffler) that I will use under the engine.

I have drilled 2 holes at the lowest point of the exhaust (Back section) to evacuate the extensive condensation. It is a trade off since these might be where the rust will start but the DS usually goes down first at the front which would make the water going towards the muffler. It is easier to change these pipes than finding another muffler.

Cleaned up some rust...

... and greased the fishtail. Some paint on the bracket and it is ready to go.

I've used rubber strap hangers ref# 8484 to replace the old rubber. I just had to remove the metal part from the new part.

To watch it bigger on YouTube.

Electrical finished, cluster and dash closed.

The electrical is finished and everything works.

Before closing the dash, I fixed the warped cluster housing.

The hydraulic pressure bulb is a 6V bulb but the blinker and high-beam bulbs are 12V to make them dimmer. It makes sense for the high-beam since you only use it at night and it would be annoying to be blinded by a dash light, but I've changed the blinker bulb with a 6V; it is very difficult to see it in day light (Especially the flasher is silent now).

Making sure that the bulbs are working (The piece is upside down on the picture).

The cluster was manufactured on December 17th 1956; surely a very early US export cluster.

The cluster housing/surrounding piece was wrapped on the top, which is very common.

I've glued a piece of metal to keep it straight.

Looking good now.

The dash is closed up.

Blinkers working!

My blinkers are finally working. I have a brand new Axo turn signal switch still in the box but it is not working. I have bought a 6 V flasher (Carquest FSH535) and I'll use the Axo as a switch. For reference, the X is 49 on other flashers, L is 49a and P is 31. 

X --> +

L --> to switch (Violet)

P --> light on dash (Green at switch)

The rest of the wiring stay the same: White to the left side and blue to the right side.

  

I have solder the contacts to avoid any corrosion or problem down the road.

Short video... It's nice to see this car coming back to life.

To watch it bigger on Youtube

Calibration of the High pressure switches...

The hydraulic pressure light never worked on my DS. 

The contacts inside did not touch each other and one switch was corroded.

After cleaning them up, I used my bench tester to calibrate them at 1000psi (See video). The factory specs are between 870 psi and 1015 psi.

To see it bigger on Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLqe4XvvtRQ

Parking lights on B pillar...

I have fixed my parking lights on the B pillars. The switch is under the dash.

Turn signal switch...

The turn signal switch was in bad shape.

Fortunately, years ago I bought a brand new one still in its original box 

I don't think it is still under warranty :oD

I just have to clean the oxidation off the contacts. 

In place but still some issues with wires and rusted bulb sockets.

Rear lights

The rear lights did not work at all. A lot of rust everywhere. First, I removed the fenders and bumper. I was amazed that the nuts on the brackets did not get damaged. The bumper is aluminum, which is strange. One light was damaged so the car might have been lightly rear ended and someone changed the bumper with one from an ID (I am guessing). It is interesting to see the skirt below the bumper which has been deleted afterwards.

Note to myself: The rear lights connector is on the left (when looking at the connectors) and the brake light connector  is on the right (Respectively wire #1 and #29)

The rear plate is really bad and would be difficult to restore; I have another one in much better shape and identical.

The early ones have an extra piece of metal on the top.

Due to the rust the ground was not reaching the bulbs.

After sand blasting and painting...

I have drilled a hole facing down to add a ground wire.

The early bulb holders were steel and later became copper. The little difference being the little tab at the bottom on the picture. The plastic lens will hold this part. I have solder a wire on the copper plate to have a good ground connection.

Early lights have a metal cover over the license plate bulb.

I will restore these for now but I have to find some "new" ones.

I have remove some paint on the lens and sanded them.

New bulbs along with repainted reflectors (Chrome paint).

The cover are painted and the lenses polished.

I could not put the rear plate back on without protecting the body.

Interesting detail: A copper insert is there to drain the water.

After removing most of the rust, I've applied POR15 on the body. The rubber skirts cleaned up nicely with lacquer thinner.

I have sandblasted the rust areas on the rear plate and welded shut some holes. In the future, I probably will sand blast the entire piece when I prep the car for paint. It is protected against rust for now but it could be better.

I have ground the POR off around one hole on each side to insure the ground connection.

These will bring the ground right to the bulb holders.

Working! It is nice to see the car coming back to life. There is still a problem with the harness but I'm working on it.

I am keeping the original plate...

... because there were some rubber riveted on each side; another feature that was deleted later on. This winter I will add the rubber pieces to the new piece.

Nice!

Another detail: The bumper has rubber flaps on each side below the reflectors.