Blinkers working!

My blinkers are finally working. I have a brand new Axo turn signal switch still in the box but it is not working. I have bought a 6 V flasher (Carquest FSH535) and I'll use the Axo as a switch. For reference, the X is 49 on other flashers, L is 49a and P is 31. 

X --> +

L --> to switch (Violet)

P --> light on dash (Green at switch)

The rest of the wiring stay the same: White to the left side and blue to the right side.

  

I have solder the contacts to avoid any corrosion or problem down the road.

Short video... It's nice to see this car coming back to life.

To watch it bigger on Youtube

Calibration of the High pressure switches...

The hydraulic pressure light never worked on my DS. 

The contacts inside did not touch each other and one switch was corroded.

After cleaning them up, I used my bench tester to calibrate them at 1000psi (See video). The factory specs are between 870 psi and 1015 psi.

To see it bigger on Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLqe4XvvtRQ

Parking lights on B pillar...

I have fixed my parking lights on the B pillars. The switch is under the dash.

Turn signal switch...

The turn signal switch was in bad shape.

Fortunately, years ago I bought a brand new one still in its original box 

I don't think it is still under warranty :oD

I just have to clean the oxidation off the contacts. 

In place but still some issues with wires and rusted bulb sockets.

Rear lights

The rear lights did not work at all. A lot of rust everywhere. First, I removed the fenders and bumper. I was amazed that the nuts on the brackets did not get damaged. The bumper is aluminum, which is strange. One light was damaged so the car might have been lightly rear ended and someone changed the bumper with one from an ID (I am guessing). It is interesting to see the skirt below the bumper which has been deleted afterwards.

Note to myself: The rear lights connector is on the left (when looking at the connectors) and the brake light connector  is on the right (Respectively wire #1 and #29)

The rear plate is really bad and would be difficult to restore; I have another one in much better shape and identical.

The early ones have an extra piece of metal on the top.

Due to the rust the ground was not reaching the bulbs.

After sand blasting and painting...

I have drilled a hole facing down to add a ground wire.

The early bulb holders were steel and later became copper. The little difference being the little tab at the bottom on the picture. The plastic lens will hold this part. I have solder a wire on the copper plate to have a good ground connection.

Early lights have a metal cover over the license plate bulb.

I will restore these for now but I have to find some "new" ones.

I have remove some paint on the lens and sanded them.

New bulbs along with repainted reflectors (Chrome paint).

The cover are painted and the lenses polished.

I could not put the rear plate back on without protecting the body.

Interesting detail: A copper insert is there to drain the water.

After removing most of the rust, I've applied POR15 on the body. The rubber skirts cleaned up nicely with lacquer thinner.

I have sandblasted the rust areas on the rear plate and welded shut some holes. In the future, I probably will sand blast the entire piece when I prep the car for paint. It is protected against rust for now but it could be better.

I have ground the POR off around one hole on each side to insure the ground connection.

These will bring the ground right to the bulb holders.

Working! It is nice to see the car coming back to life. There is still a problem with the harness but I'm working on it.

I am keeping the original plate...

... because there were some rubber riveted on each side; another feature that was deleted later on. This winter I will add the rubber pieces to the new piece.

Nice!

Another detail: The bumper has rubber flaps on each side below the reflectors.

Rear view mirror...

 I have put the dashboard apart. Early DS always have their mirrors going bad...

... here is why:

I've bought a cheap mirror at Walmart and will make a new mirror. I usually brake two before being successful. The original mirror is 2mm thick; bathroom mirrors are 3mm and I use them for the later DS21. Here I cannot use 3mm since it has to fit in the grove and the glass fro the day/night settings have to fit on the top of it.

Once I've got  a rough shape I grind the glass up the the dimensions then I fine tune the corners with the old mirror attached to it.

I use a belt sander to grind the glass; first with a heavy grid then with fine. The mirror is finished there.

Finally I'll be able to see behind me.